Arcadia in the clouds, Penang Hill | Bukit Bendera

Penang Hill is the state's foremost hill resort. Although it was originally called Flagstaff Hill, the locals have always affectionately referred to it as Penang Hill or Bukit Bendera. At about 830 metres (2,750 feet) from sea level, the temperature on the hilltop is considerably cooler than the nether lands. On regular weekdays, the hill is pretty quiet and can serve as a recuperative getaway, far from the madding crowd and city heat.

The name change from Penang Hill to Bukit Bendera (I don't quite remember when exactly) actually takes it back to the early days of Penang Hill, when a flag fluttering from a flagstaff or flagpole on Bel Retiro, the home of Penang's governor at the time, was used as a beacon, or signal 'transmitter' to Fort Cornwallis.

A quick gallop through history

According to history books, it was Francis Light who first plotted a pack-horse track to Penang Hill from the Botanic Gardens waterfall way back in 1788. During the 19th century, British colonials built bungalows on the hill for private use. Even during the early part of the 20th century, the bungalows on higher ground were home to planters and administrators while the rich Chinese towkays built theirs, which were no less grandiose, on the way up the hill.

Before the completion of the funicular railway, those wanting to travel up Penang Hill had to do so by being seated in a sedan chair (one passenger per chair) held aloft by six bearers. Each bearer was paid 46 cents per trip.

The first attempt at constructing a railway began in 1897, and construction was completed only in 1906. Service was launched in 1923. On 4 December 1979, four modern Swiss-made coaches replaced the slow and rickety old ones. The new coaches travel at an average rate of 1.5 metres per second, and takes about 25 minutes or so to travel along the length of the railway track, which is 2007 metres long. The height at the apex is 701 metres above sea level. In the picture on the right, the new coach is making its maiden journey up while the old one is heading back to the lower station – for the last time.

Although common in Europe and Japan, the funicular railway in Penang is reputedly one-of-a-kind in Southeast Asia.

An actual specimen of the old coach now sits outside the Penang Museum, and serves as a souvenir shop owned by the Penang Heritage Trust. Some of the original houses still stand. These include the Bel Retiro, Convalescent, Grace Dieu and Fairmont.

Getting to Penang Hill

There are several ways you can get up to Penang Hill. The most common is by the over 80 year-old funicular railway. If you are willing to stand in a crowded compartment for about approximately 30 minutes (weekends and public holidays are especially jam packed) RM4 buys you a return ticket (check the railway schedule at the end of the article). You can also hire a car to drive you up but costs can be pretty steep.

Penang Hill Railway Schedule

Departure from Lower Station:
6.30am and 6.45 am during holidays, 7am and thereafter every 30 minutes until 9pm
Saturdays: 6.30am, 6.45am, 7am and thereafter every 30 minutes until 11.30pm

Departure from Upper Station:
6.15am (during school days), 6.30am (during holidays)
6.45am, 7.00am, 7.15am and thereafter every 30 minutes until 9:15pm
Saturdays: 6.30am, 6.45am, 7.00am, 7:15am and thereafter every 30 minutes until 11.15pm

Tickets available at Lower and Upper Station.

Enquiries: 04-828 3263 (Lower Station) & 04-829 9412 (Upper Station).
* Schedule Subject to change without prior notice.

Top travellers destination | Natural and hill resort